Salmon surpasses tuna and is firmly established: Penetration of sushi restaurants in Toyosu and Ginza

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Thursday, 10 September 2020 11:53

JAPAN: A long time ago, imported salmon “salmon”

was treated here as Edomae sushi. However, its acceptance among women and children has made it an increasingly present ingredient in Japan, more and more luxury sushi restaurants are being added to the menu even in Ginza and Toyosu Market.

As a sushi item, salmon is now so popular that it surpasses tuna. In the middle of June, it was reported that a new coronavirus was detected in a cutting board cut from imported salmon in the food market in Beijing, and the distribution in China was temporarily stopped, However, there is no convincing evidence that fish is a source of infection.

The popularity of salmon in Japan does not appear to have been affected by this unfortunate incident, as evidenced by its strong presence in the Tokyo market for Toyosu, Japan's new cuisine. This trend is proof that times have changed, as wild fish of national origin was preferred in the old Tsukiji market. Another irrefutable sign that salmon has come to stay can be found in the luxurious sushi restaurants in Ginza, which are beginning to include it in their menu.

Once paid in front of Tsukiji

At the sushi shop in the market, the seafood selected from various places such as tuna Otoro from Oma, Aomori prefecture, Bafununi from Hokkaido, Nodoro from Hokuriku, Kuruma shrimp from Kyushu, etc. are provided to customers by the skill of craftsmen. R. Most of the stories are "domestic and natural ones" because all the shops are not cheap from around 4000 yen per person. The "tuna auctioneer" of a wholesale company and "fish professionals" also come to the store to entertain the people involved in the production area, so it is natural to be genuine.

Due to such commitments of marketers, salmon had a presence that was unimaginable until now. According to the import trading company "Ocean Trading" (Headquarters: Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto), when I went to the Tsukiji market to sell salmon about 15 years ago, most wholesalers dealing in fresh fish were reluctant and refused to purchase it say. It seems that there was a stereotype that "imported/cultivated fish cannot be sold at Tsukiji."

However, now that all fisheries wholesalers are handling it, "the number of orders increases at the end of the year and other demand periods that cannot be met," he said. A market official said, "In addition to the decrease in global fisheries resources such as tuna, the improvement of the aquaculture environment and food, and the improvement of freshness preservation technology, the quality improvement of salmon triggered the inflow to Japan. ".

According to the craftsmen of popular sushi restaurants in Toyosu, salmon that did not sell salmon in the Tsukiji era was added to the menu, and even if it was handled before, it was further promoted, making it an indispensable item for the selection of restaurants. Has become. One of the popular stores, "Iwasa Hisushi," said, "I never thought I would hold salmon in the Tsukiji era" (the same store craftsman), and once I didn't respond to requests from customers. However, as the quality has improved, the number of orders has increased, and finally, from this year, in addition to squeezing rice balls , rice bowls have also been added to the menu.

In addition to sushi shops and seafood donburi specialty shops, Tonkatsu Yachiyo, a fried food shop in the market, said, "In addition to fried salmon, we also started serving sashimi after coming to Toyosu." It became a presence that made a wind hole for domestic and natural oriented.

Popular by foreigners and women

The standard Japanese food for salmon rice balls and grilled fish is salmon in English, but they are clearly used in Japanese restaurants and fresh fish stores. The fish that are cultivated for raw consumption are called "salmon," and most are imported.

The most widely distributed in Japan is chum salmon (autumn salmon), which is known for its new rolls . In addition, aquaculture coho salmon, which is often used for bento ingredients, is produced in Miyagi prefecture . Natural salmon, including sockeye salmon and king salmon imported from Russia and North America, often contain parasites, so cooking is the principle. In Japan a decade ago, it was something that "salmon = don't eat raw."

Salmon, which had plenty of fat on it, was very popular for its family-friendly sushi roll, which also helped with its low price. It used to be a fish species favored by women and children, but is now popular regardless of gender or age. In the “ Consumer survey on conveyor belt sushi, ” conducted by a major food company “Maruhanichiro” (Headquarters: Toyosu, Koto-ku), he became the number one “good eater” for nine consecutive years. According to the latest data released in March 2010, women have overwhelming support with 53.2%, and men are the leading 41.3%, making a big difference with 36.7% of the tuna red meat chasing in the second place.

The fact that it has spread in Europe, the United States and China was also a tailwind. As the number of tourists visiting Japan who do not have much habit of eating raw fish increases, it is no longer possible for high-class sushi restaurants aimed at inbound consumption to ignore raw salmon, which is familiar overseas. At the sushi restaurant in the Toyosu Market, it's surprising that "I have more orders than tuna and sea urchins" when I order single items other than course dishes.

Norwegian farmed salmon

In Japan there is an abundance of salmon from Chile and Canada, but the real king is the Atlantic salmon of Norwegian origin. The Norwegian Seafood Council (NSC) can boast of its comprehensive aquaculture approach, which includes the entire process - spawning, farming and transport - in the right environment: the cold waters of the polar circle. Arctic and temperate bays converge on the coast; thanks to this, a strong current is generated and the sea temperature decreases.

An example is found in the Aurora brand, which is grown in cages in the Arctic Circle. The salmon is then shipped to Japan by air from processing centers; arrives in about 36 hours. There it is sold very well as fish for sashimi. In fact, it is already considered a luxury product.

According to a survey by the Norwegian authorities, the export volume of salmon to Japan was about 34,000 tons in 2019, an increase of 40% compared to 2009, 10 years ago. From urban areas such as the Kanto region, it has spread widely to restaurants and fresh fish stores all over the country in recent years.

Source: FIS


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